Overview of Diamond Cut Categories: Brilliant, Step, Hybrid, and Antique

Diamonds come in various cuts, each designed to optimize light reflection, brilliance, and aesthetic appeal. The four primary categories of diamond cuts are Brilliant, Step, Hybrid, and Antique, each with unique optical properties and historical significance.

This primer provides an overview of these cuts before diving into more detailed explanations (see bottom of the page).

Important note! GIA and IGI only offer cut rankings for classic brilliant round diamonds. That means that if you see a cut grade given to ANY other shape, it is pure marketing. There is no such thing as a “super ideal” diamond. Sure – websites and retailers may give their own rankings to diamonds based on their own ideal proportions (as we do, those in parentheses proportions that Gabrielle has put together). However, that does not always mean the cut is perfect. We need to go a step further. That’s where the diamond proportion guide is going to come in.

1. Brilliant Cuts #

💎 Main Feature: Maximum sparkle and light return.

Definition

Brilliant cuts are designed to reflect the maximum amount of light through precise facet arrangements. They emphasize brilliance (white light return), fire (color dispersion), and scintillation (sparkle). Brilliant cuts have triangular and kite-shaped facets that optimize light performance.

Examples of Brilliant Cuts

• Round Brilliant – The most popular and sparkly cut (58 facets).
• Princess Cut – A square brilliant cut with sharp corners.
• Oval Cut – An elongated round brilliant for a larger appearance.
• Marquise Cut – A football-shaped cut that maximizes surface area.
• Pear Cut – A teardrop shape combining round and marquise.
• Heart Cut – A brilliant cut shaped like a heart.

💡 Best For: Those who want maximum sparkle and a classic look.

2. Step Cuts #

💎 Main Feature: Elegance and a hall-of-mirrors effect.

Definition

Step cuts focus on clarity and a sleek, elegant appearance rather than brilliance. These cuts have parallel, rectangular facets that create a subtle, sophisticated play of light known as the “hall of mirrors” effect. They emphasize transparency over sparkle.

Examples of Step Cuts

• Emerald Cut – A rectangular shape with cropped corners and long, clean lines.
• Asscher Cut – A square step cut with deep proportions and dramatic light play.
• Baguette Cut – A long, narrow rectangular step cut, often used as side stones.

💡 Best For: Those who love an elegant, understated, and vintage look.

3. Hybrid Cuts #

💎 Main Feature: A mix of brilliance and step-cut elegance.

Definition

Hybrid cuts combine the sparkle of brilliant cuts with the clean lines of step cuts, creating a unique balance between brilliance and structure. These cuts often feature mixed facet arrangements.

Examples of Hybrid Cuts

• Radiant Cut – A rectangular or square cut with brilliant-style facets.
• Cushion Cut (square and elongated) – A square or rectangular shape with rounded corners and brilliant faceting.
• Flanders Cut – A square diamond with brilliant faceting for extra sparkle.

💡 Best For: Those who want both brilliance and a touch of classic elegance.

4. Antique Cuts #

💎 Main Feature: Vintage charm with hand-cut faceting.

Definition

Antique cuts were developed before modern technology refined diamond cutting techniques. These diamonds have larger facets, a softer sparkle, and a more romantic appearance, often handcrafted for a unique, organic look.

Examples of Antique Cuts

• Old Mine Cut – A predecessor to the modern cushion cut with large facets and a high crown.
• Old European Cut – A rounded version of the old mine cut, similar to the modern round brilliant but with deeper proportions.
• Rose Cut – A flat-bottomed diamond with a domed top covered in triangular facets.
• Single Cut – A simplified brilliant cut with only 17-18 facets.

💡 Best For: Those who love vintage, romantic aesthetics, and historical charm.

Differences Between Antique and Modern Cuts #

Comparison of Brilliant, Step, Hybrid, and Antique Cuts #